Wednesday, 17 June 2015

Sew over it (not silk) silk cami

I have been searching for the perfect cami/woven tank for the stupidest amount of time. Well, when I say searching, I actually mean deliberating between the Grainline tiny pocket tank and the Wiksten tank. I literally could not decide between the two and didn't want to feel like I'd made the wrong choice, so when I noticed the Sew over it silk cami pattern recently I thought I'd just bloody buy it and stop floundering. I actually think they are probably all very similar in fit, but the thing that the 'sew over it' pattern offers that the others do not is facings to finish the neck and armholes. I've mentioned before that I'm less keen on bias facings, so this is a welcome addition, but as it happened I have only made one version with the actual facings, because I didn't have enough fabric!!! Oh well ;-)

I have made several versions since I bought this pattern a couple of weeks ago. What can I say, I have been thinking about woven tanks for a while!!! First up is my favourite one!


This is extended to midi dress length and also slightly flared at the sides to skim over my hips. I made some fit adjustments following an initial toile, but I'll cover those in a bit.

I suppose it's obvious, but I printed the fabric for this dress. I am in love with the texture and the scale of the print and will most definitely wear this to death (summer and winter). I didn't have enough fabric for facings, so did a bias facing instead.

I have been wearing this belted. I think if it was really hot outside then I could happily wear it loose with flats, but I prefer the look of it this way.





I added a pocket, because there is never a good reason to not add one!


This next dress is the same as above, but using the patterns facings, yay! The fabric is an absolutely stunning Melody Miller print that was gifted to me from the adorable Inna. Sewing people are so amazing and she has given me some beautiful fabric that I would never have had a chance to own otherwise!

I love the way the print was split, but I was drawn to the idea of having a contrast front and back, so cut the dress with a centre front and back seam to allow me to play with it a bit. I just about managed this from the fabric I had with a little section on the front grafted in, but I'm so pleased that I did it this way. I have two large wasps on my boobs too which is always fun!




Another pocket...


Back to the pattern as drafted and below is my very wearable toile. I made a size 14 based on my measurements and it is pretty much perfect.


The only change really needed was to raise the armhole by a couple of centimetres, because I dislike how low it is. I have fat arms, so low armholes are deeply unflattering on me.

 
Sorry, I have been wearing this and didn't iron it before photos. Pretty poor show I know.
 

I like the fit with my now amended armholes and have started to make a straight forward cami, but haven't finished it for this post and think I am probably boring you anyway with my many versions!!!

This last one has the flare of the dress and the raised armholes, so is not straight up, but so loose and flowy. Going to wear this a lot, lot, lot. FYI - more hand printed fabric (cotton lawn), but the other piece of this that was in my shop has sold already :-)




Verdict is that this pattern is soooo versatile. Unlike other sleeveless cami bodices I have tried, this does not gape at the neck and has wide enough straps to make me feel covered enough, especially with the raising of the armhole. I really love that it needed minimal tampering to make it work for me and is definitely a go to pattern. I think the fact that I made four and a half in quick succession of one another definitely makes this a clear favourite. This is what happened with the Linden and Hemlock and they remain up there with my all time favourite patterns. I'm clearly a basics girl at heart. Very well drafted and really great to use, this is giving me the motivation I needed to make a start on the ultimate trousers. I made a toile ages ago, but made the wrong size, so it's taken me a while to get round to reprinting the pattern in a bigger size. Expect to see trews round here very soon!!!

P.S. These are some old and unblogged trousers from a Japanese sewing book that were in my rework pile, but I threw them on today and decided I like the cropped wide leg, so may try to add the leg shape to the ultimate trouser top. These are elasticated, badly fitting and so irritating to wear unfortunately, but they will go on to better things. Is it bad to admit though that I'm so lazy about getting changed that I'm still wearing them? ;-)

18 comments:

wethesewing said...

I read about half you blog post and immediately bought the PDF pattern! Might make one tonight :) Have made a few of the Wiksten tanks, so excited to try a similar but different pattern. Never sewn a facing (I know, how did I manage that?) before so looking forward to it! And Marilla - the dress with your own printed pattern looks SO GOOD on you. Love the way you've styled it with the belt. You look totally hot if you ask me :) Ingrid xx

Marilla Walker said...

Ha ha, gotcha reeled in good and proper! I love your Wiksten dress you made last year, I hope you like this pattern just as much! Hopefully you can get back to printing/tie dying now you've got the summer free ;-)

Louise Perry said...

These are lovely. Particularly good in your printed fabric. Really inspiring.

teridodds said...

All of these are fantastic! Your hand painted fabric is so lovely. I just spent some time making Wiksten tank muslins-- like 4 of them. Now I don't even feel like making one. Perhaps I should move on to this pattern instead?!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Louise! X

Marilla Walker said...

Hi a Teri! Well I don't know anything about the Wiksten pattern, but I can thoroughly recommend this pattern. I guess the only thing it doesn't have that the grainline tank has is bust darts, which can be more flattering and easier to fit. I'll watch out to see what you end up doing! ;-)

JustSewJenna said...

You have been a busy bee!! I really love the first first one, and the wasp one, and all of them!!

Roobeedoo said...

I love seeing all these versions of the same pattern - so inspiring! I have been testing out several woven tank patterns lately and I might have to add this one to the mix. I agree that bias binding can be a pain - not least because it seems to gobble up fabric to make the stuff!

Marilla Walker said...

thanks Jenna. The wasp one would look so great on you, but I'm keeping it! If I had enough fabric I would make you another and it's the thought that counts right? xxx

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Roobeedoo! I've seen your woven tank experiments and I must say that I find the quest for the perfect tank so exciting. It's like the holy grail (or something equally as dramatic). If you feel you need just one more pattern in your life then this one is brilliant!

Melissa said...

Oh I love that first dress on you! The fabric that you designed is just gorgeous! All this reminds me I need to sew up a couple of tanks!

Thewallinna said...

Simple chic is it! Although we are often drawn to fancy patterns, the fact is that the most wearable/practical/cool are the simplest one! You used the most amazing fabric for each piece and ended up with the coolest everyday wardrobe!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Melissa and yes, mire tanks need to be sewn! :-)

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks lovely, lovely Inna! I agree that simple patterns are brilliant bases. I've never really been drawn to really complicated designs anyway, but this simple cami has got so much potential!

Kathryn said...

I just love your dress versions, particularly the one in your hand-printed fabric! And it looks as lovely on you as it does in the photos! I love that you make the same pattern so many times, I tend to do the same too, but over a much longer timescale! and that's a shame those trousers aren't so comfortable as they look fab!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Kathryn! I love making a pattern multiple times and it's good because each time I make a favourite pattern I seem to make a change which makes me love it more! The trousers are a shame, but they are not salvageable unfortunately. They give me some ideas to work on though which is good :-)

gingermakes.com said...

These look great and so wearable! Well done!

Marilla Walker said...

Thank my dear!