I ditched the standing collar and instead designed this cute and rather retro lapel. The neckline is really pretty and is a slash neck so it's straight across the back and front if you hold it closed. I might use this in a future pattern as I really like it. I have excluded front closures, so it's rather more like a kimono, but there is an overlap at the centre front should you wish to add buttons.
All construction is really simple and the sleeve hems are simply turned up and stitched, which allows you to roll them up with ease (how I like it).
So there you go! I shall run through the construction right here and now and add a link at the end to the pattern download, but I am always around if you have any questions!
I have not done a lay plan, but I managed to fit all the pattern pieces on a 2 metre piece of 140cm wide fabric that was folded in half length wise (raw edge to raw edge) instead of width wise.
It is one size only, but has plenty of ease for a variety of sizes. It is shown on the mannequin which s a UK 10 and I am between a UK 12/14. I have a 37" bust and 42" hip FYI shhh...
Fabrics - Cotton twill or denim works very well!
Onto the instructions!
When cutting your fabric mark all notches with a snip approx. 0.5cm into edge of fabric and mark all black dots (at pocket and shoulder point) with a tailors tack or water soluble pen.
All seam allowances are 1.5cm. I simply sewed the seams on the main body, overlocked the seam allowances together and topstitched down for a neat and quick finish, but if you are in the mood for something more swish then you can practice you flat felled seam skills.
All seams are topstitched down on the main coat apart from the side seams.
I have not used interfacing on the facings on this occasion as my fabric was very stable, but you may need to depending on the fabric you are working with!
- Press and finish the top edge as per markings on pattern piece and topstitch down.
- Press remaining edges in by 1.5cm, pin and sew to jacket fronts.
- Press and finish the bottom hems (finish with either zig zag or overlocking stitch). Press in by 1.5cm and topstitch down. The reason for sewing the hems first is that they need to be done in order to complete one of the following steps (all will become clear)!
- Sew, press, finish and topstitch the centre back seam of the back yokes right sides together. Press seam towards the left back
- Sew, press, finish and topstitch the jacket backs to the back yoke right sides together aligning the centre back notches to the centre back seam of the yoke. I placed the right back onto the yoke first so that it will be the top overlap from the right side followed by the left back.
- Sew, press, finish and topstitch the jacket fronts to the front yokes right sides together.
- Sew, press, and finish the front and back yokes together (right sides together) at the upper arm seam. Stop the stitching at the marked 'start of shoulder seam' point and extend the snip in the seam allowance down to (but not through) the stitch line.
- Topstitch the upper arm seam and carefully taper off the stitch line into the neckline, making sure to pull the other neckline seam allowance out of the way.
- Sew the facings together at the shoulder seams right sides together and stopping at the 'start of shoulder seam' point. Finish the outer edges that will not be sewn to the jacket with a zig zag or over locking stitch.
- Pin and sew the facings to the jacket right sides together. Pin the bottom hem of the facing up so it is level with the jacket hem (see pic below).
- Take your time around the acute angle of the shoulders. Do some forward backwards stitches on this area to re-inforce it as this has potential to be vulnerable. If you find there is some pulling when you turn through you might find snipping into the seam allowance a bit more helps! It should all sit nice and smooth.
- Snip the corner seam allowances at the top centre front edge of the facings/main fronts and turn facings back through. Press and topstitch the bottom of the facing down along the existing stitch line on the jacket fronts.
- To keep the facing from flapping around at the neck machine or hand tack the edge of the facing at the shoulder seam to the coat seam allowance.
- Sew the side seams right sides together and snip into the curve of the underarm. Press and overlock or zig zag the seam allowances together spreading out the snipped area as you go.
- Finish the sleeve hem edge (zig zag or overlock) and turn up by 1.5cm. Topstich down and you're finished!
So there you have it! The bare bones of this coat is right here and can be given a higher end finish and fancy pockets or hardware if you wish or just left as it is.
Anyway have fun and let me know if you make it as I always love to see what people do with my patterns #rosejacketpattern