Tuesday, 12 September 2017

True Bias Lander pant

Hi hi!

I just made a thing and had to blog it immediately because I'm so excited. The Lander pants pattern from True Bias came out over the weekend and I had some sewing time so the timing couldn't have been more perfect! The style is sooooo me and I have been checking out this cut in the shops for so long now. I am totally into the 70's/nautical vibe whatever the year and whatever else is "trending", so these are a worthy investment.




Because I knew I wanted to make this pattern work I was willing to put the hours in to making the appropriate adjustments. This fitted around the top type of trouser is never going to fit me straight out the envelope and certainly doesn't look great when I try RTW pairs on, but I made a toile to see how the original fit was working and straight away added more length into the rise. Once I had toiled with the added length, things were looking a lot better. 3 inches took the top of the trousers to my natural waist (minus the waistband), but my final adjustments were actually 3cm longer than the original pattern.

I wish I'd taken pictures of the toiles along the way, but you know how it goes and I was caught up in how I was going to make it work, but basically I needed a full tummy and thigh adjustment on the front trouser leg which meant adding some width in the front and extending the front crotch curve. The back was fun to do (I'm being serious) and I made a full calf adjustment because the trousers were getting caught on that area and took some length out of the back centre leg length because I had extra fabric under my bottom. Basically scooping out the back crotch sorted this with loads of shifting and pivoting of seam allowances. The below diagram shows the original pattern in pink and my new pattern pieces in black. Basically the crotch curve has an extreme slope from the front to back in order to fit my body. I really enjoyed this process of analysis and because I was on my own I just did one tiny tweak at a time.


The back calf adjustment looked like this...


Here are some scary pictures of me in leggings to show all my bumpy bits. Really sorry you can just see my pants through the fabric, but if you have a similar body to mine then maybe it will help you relate!


Probably some further tweaks could happen for future versions, but I'm pretty stoked! Certainly the waist needs some tweaks, because it is definitely too roomy, but I resolved that with some epaulette things in keeping with the overall look. Also a smidge more length out the centre of the back leg length and top of trouser wouldn't hurt. I don't know, maybe they are good enough. I shall wear these a lot as they are a brilliant match with my overall style.







I forgot to mention that I made these with a wool suiting fabric. I wanted a winter version that would fall nicely and this fabric was already in my stash. So pleased with the wool/pattern combo. Here are some close ups of the details to give you a better feel for the fabric. Can I just say, that I was so nervous about the button front fly. I thought I would feel self conscious drawing attention to my tummy, but it is definitely a new favourite finish. In love with this detail and it's so easy!

I lined the back pockets with some shirting from my husbands old shirt because I was working with wool. I really makes a nice finish and means the pockets won't stretch out.


Beautiful brass anchor buttons from Loop.


A hook and eye inside the waistband to help with any gaping.


The fly shield is faced with the shirting for comfort. I considered facing the waistband too, but I guess I got lazy. I also wish I had bound the seams, but the next wool pair I make will be all bells and whistles.


So that's been a whirlwind sewing romance and I really think this is a great pattern. I probably always say that about a pattern I try, but I mean it! I always expect to have to do adjustments on a trouser pattern, but I'm not always willing to put the time in if I don't feel the love right away. These were worth it for me. I shall wear these a load and see if anything particularly screams out to me as a tweak for future iterations. Love, love, love!!!

22 comments:

Katie said...

They look fantastic! Great work with the fitting. This pattern has jumped to the top of my queue too, I'm going to use the burgundy stretch twill you gave me ages ago!

Louise said...

That's a great style and fit, and so quickly made you must have been on a roll x

Emma said...

It's awesome to see all your adjustments. Your finished pants look amazing.

Kate Brookes said...

They are so good Marilla - thanks for posting the adjustment illustration , I will defo use that when I eventually make mine x

Sarah Randt said...

You look terrific! Thank you for sharing your adjustment diagrams - visuals like that are very helpful.

Bellbird said...

They are wonderful Marilla! The pattern is near the top of my list, too. Also really love your top in these pics, reminds me that I should revisit your fab pattern :)

Rebecca said...

Oh these are fabulous!! I was originally undecided on the button fly, then realised that meant no zip, hooray! Thanks for the extensive fitting review!

Fabric Tragic said...

Really great fit - I'd be delighted with trousers that looked this good!

Marilla Walker said...

Ah yes Katie, I am thinking of a pair in a similar colour. So good for winter! You may want to size down with that fabric if memory serves as it's so super stretchy!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Louise! x

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Sarah. I always find things like this helpful and it's better if you can see what my body actually looks like as clothes have a clever way of disguising all the lumps and bumps! x

Marilla Walker said...

No worries Kate! Looking forward to seeing an awesome pair from you! x

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Emma x

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Bella! It's still one of my favourite tops to wear after all this time! Can't believe I'm not bored of it yet ;-)

Marilla Walker said...

Seriously Rebecca, button front fly's are the way forward! The don't have the bulk of a zip fly which I really like. The only issue I can see is gaping if over fitted, so just plan enough wearing ease!

Marilla Walker said...

Aw, thanks so much Sarah (fabric tragic) x

Caroline said...

These look brilliant Marilla x Love the pocket lining with your hubby's old shirt - a fab re-cycling idea.
I just made your Roberts top for a friend out of an M&S skirt x
http://carolinejoynson.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/marillas-roberts-top-top-shop-top.html

Coco said...

Beautiful pants, great fit! I'm working with my copy today, plan to toile the top half of the pants.

Helen said...

Love these. Thanks for sharing your adjustments. I'm quite different in shape but it's still interesting to see how you approach amendments. I do have a "full calf" issue, so I found that picture super helpful. That's something I need to look into futher. Thank you!

Marilla Walker said...

Thanks Caroline and I love your top you made! I love recycling fabric where possible and my husband goes through the elbows frequently, so they are never suitable for handing on to someone else!

Marilla Walker said...

Hey Coco, thanks so much! Good luck with your pair and check out the upcoming sew along on True Bias' site for any tips! x

Marilla Walker said...

Hi Helen, it's always helpful to get an idea isn't it and you never know where yo might need to make adjustments until you start looking really closely. I always love that part! x